Harold Hall

Workshop Projects


Having positioned the angle plate the casting is added for boring as shown in Photograph 17. This Photograph is using an already completed workpiece and is just to simulate a typical operation for the faceplate.


As I indicated earlier the angle plate will foul the bed of a Myford lathe when it is mounted close to the faceplate's edge. In the Photograph the angle plate is about 3/8" from the edge of the faceplate and there was still about 3/16" clearance to the bed so this indicates that it will rarely be a problem.


Alternative Setting Pin

I mentioned earlier that I had ended up with the front face of the faceplate further from the lathe's mandrel than intended by Hemingway and as a result there was visible a length of internal thread that served no purpose. I decided therefore that it would look tidier and be easier to keep clean if I bored the faceplate to remove this and then realised that I could use this shallow bore to take an alternative setting pin. I made the bore 1.250" diameter to match the size of the parallel portion on the rear and the setting pin seen bottom right of Photograph 10. The viewer may consider that this is a worthwhile reason for not machining to the dimensions given.


As both the larger diameter and the pin need to be concentric these would need machining in the same sequence. However, my 1-1/4" bar stock was well up to size so I could use this if I could get it running perfectly true. The obvious solution would be to cut a short length and mount this in the four jaw but even with this done, absolute precision would be difficult to achieve and in any case there would be a short length of material left after parting off that may not find a use. I decided therefore to use a method that I often adopt when wanting to avoid ending up with small lengths of material, particularly useful if having to make a number of identical parts, the viewer may find the method useful both in this case and in similar situations.


I set up my fixed steady to support the bar which automatically ensured that it was running perfectly true at this point and the pin then turned and the workpiece parted off. Ideally, the bar should be mounted in the four jaw chuck so that it can be made to run reasonably true at that end also but my three jaw is quite accurate and therefore acceptable when the steady is so far from the chuck as Photograph 18 shows.


The Hemingway setting hub has to be used with the faceplate remote from the lathe whereas my alternative can be used whilst on the machine which very occasionally may be beneficial.


Having finished the faceplate I now have a larger and more robust plate than my existing one and am sure that the alternative slot positions will make some tasks  easier. The angle plate will also be useful elsewhere in the workshop.

A Painting Tip

Screw your thread gauge, used when machining the thread to suit the lathe's mandrel, into the faceplate from its working side and then stand it on the workbench when it will be possible to rotate the faceplate as required for painting the rear side. This will be very much easier and less tiring that attempting to hold the brush in one hand whilst holding the faceplate in the other. You will also end up with two clean hands.

Fixed steady


Face Plate.