The viewer may also be interested in my concertina type slide protector seen in the
photograph. This is made from folded cardboard taken from a cornflakes packet and
just varnished after folding using a polyurethane varnish to keep out the oil and
dirt. It was featured in the Model Engineers' workshop magazine in 1999 so is now
over 12 years old and showing no signs of needing replacing.
With the recess and hole B made mount the part onto the lathe's saddle and mark out
the centre as shown in Photograph 19. Next, drill a through hole at the position
marked and a close fit on the studs you use on the milling machine.
Place a stud into a T-nut and lock this in place in a T-slot by screwing the stud
down into the base of the slot. Two nuts temporarily locked onto the stud will make
this possible but do not overdo it you do not want to damage the top edges of your
tee slot, not unknown. With the nuts removed place the steady over this and lightly
lock it in place with a washer and nut and set the long edge at right angle to the
front edge of the table using an engineer's square. Now fully tighten the central
nut and add a workpiece clamp for added security.
Place a 12mm cutter in the cutter chuck and position it just behind the stud. Using
a piece of thin plastic place this behind the stud and bring the cutter slowly forward
until the plastic is just held. Move the cutter to one side and then forward by half
the cutter's diameter plus half the stud's diameter plus the thickness of the piece
of plastic. With the cutter now adequately in line with the hole in the steady lock
the table for the Y axis and make the first recess, Photograph 20. Rotate the steady
on the stud and set at 60° as shown in Photograph 21 and make the second recess.
Some steadies have the two arms at 90 degrees to each other. However, the greater
angle suggested in this design is to be preferred as it helps to direct the workpiece
towards the rear arm when very light cuts are being taken on smaller diameters.
Now centralise the steady onto the lathe's faceplate using the tailstock centre and
secure in place, Photograph 22. Note that I have again found use for my new workpiece
clamps, being compact they worked well on the faceplate. With that done, open up
the central hole with a large drill and using a boring tool enlarge the hole to 50mm