Harold Hall

Workshop Projects

Next, cut a strip of very thin card 1-1/8” wide and wrap this around the cylinder in the same way as the lagging will be and cut both ends against the cylinder's flat face. Compare the length of this with the lagging to determine how much will initially lap the end of the cylinder when fitted.


Place the lagging onto the cylinder with it overlapping at the end by 1/2 the difference in length and mark through the two holes at that end using a scriber. Having marked the end with marking blue will make the result more visible.


Drill and tap 8BA and fit one end using two screws and carefully wrap the lagging around the cylinder marking out the position for the other two screws. Now remove the lagging and drill and tap for these. Do mark the cylinder, and the inside of the lagging, in some way so that you know which way round to eventually assemble the parts.


Now fit the lagging using the four screws and you should find that it stands out at both ends and also the sides. This excess should then be removed on all edges by lapping the assembly on say 180 grit emery paper. Do during all these operations pay particular care not to damage the surface that will be visible in the final assembly.


Having spent some considerable time on machining the components do not rush the finishing stages as no mater how accurate you have made the parts it is the finishing that will make it look like a quality product.


Final Assembly

I do not intend to go into detail regarding final assembly as this is given on the drawings. I will though include a few pointers that may be of interest.


The drawings show that all the smaller studs are threaded from either end but those supplied are actually threaded over the full length. Obviously, avoiding the second operation was a time saver, understandable for something so small. This though has two aspects that effect the final assembly.

1. The stud has one end domed but the other shows signs of it being parted off, obviously the domed end should be the one that is visible in the final assembly. If you want to go the extra mile you could consider polishing this end.


2. As the stud is threaded over its full length there is nothing to set the amount that it projects when the part it is clamping is placed over it. For the sake of appearance each stud should project from the nut on it by the same amount, this though can be quite difficult with parts that are so small.


The following will though eliminate the problem except for a few that are in inaccessible locations. Place a piece of 3/16” diameter steel in the three jaw and drill and tap 7BA, about 1/4” deep, then part of 3/16” long, using it as follows.


Place a nut onto one of the headed screws and screw this into the part just made. Then with the screw about one thread short of the end lock it in position with the nut. Next place a nut onto the domed end of the stud to be placed and screw this into the assembly using the nut to lock it in place, finger tight being adequate.


The stud can now be fully inserted using the assembly and the nut tightened using an open ended spanner and the setting assembly removed. If the extension appears too long or too short then the setting of the screw can be changed and the stud refitted. When acceptable then the remaining studs can all be fitted and having all the stud extensions identical will look acceptable, rather than untidy if they all differed.  


If, now that it is finally assembled, the engine is a little stiff to turn you could consider a further running in session as described earlier.


If having completed the 10V you consider that you may like to also make the 10H. I do from the next page detail the machining of the parts that differ appreciably from those that make up the 10V.









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